AS FITTED TO THE ROVER 75, MG ZT, FREELANDER TD4 PRE 2007 (Also applies to many BMW vehicles).
REVISED AND UPDATED oct 2011
SYNERGY 2a NEWS: REALTIME DASH SWITCH OPTION. You can change setting whilst driving. more
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TOPICS
COMMON ENGINE FAULTS updated 14-10-11
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The BMW engine is very reliable but as the miles accumulate inevitably some item suffer from wear and tear. Sadly, some of the dealers are out of their depth with diesel engine management and related issues and if not careful, you will be paying for their trial and error method rather than their expertise!
For example: one owner was charged £1500 by a main dealer (the experts?) who failed to cure a power problem. A Mafam MF75p costing £54 solved the problem - it was an out of spec maf sensor. (doesn't cause fault codes so they were stumped)
Another owner was told he needed a new turbo or engine overhaul because of some blue smoke in the exhaust. The owner cleaned the pcv valve and cured it himself for nothing! (why do the so called experts always blame the most expensive item - don't ask!)
Yet another spent over £3000 starting with injectors, changing every single component and ending back at the injectors which had not been serviced or replaced as claimed by the garage the first time. ITS NOT ADEQUATE TO JUST STICK THEM IN AN ULTRSONIC CLEANER CHAPS..!
Fuel related problems tend to cause similar symptoms, ranging from bad starting, performance issues, cutting out, poor mpg etc and there may be more than one cause. Even a clogged fuel filter from dirty fuel or diesel bug contaminated fuel can cause them. Consider the following: -
Clogged fuel filter &/or dirty fuel
Faulty electric fuel pump(s)
Faulty maf sensor, fuel pressure sensor, cam sensor, crank sensor,
Faulty fuel pressure regulator - or seal or clogged microfilter
Leaking or faulty injector(s)
Faulty injection pump
Electrical fault or bad connection - relays, earth points, ecu, sensors and injectors, or weak battery.
Sticking egr valve
Clogged or jammed pcv valve
Leaking intercooler O rings
Leaks, splits or internal delamination of turbo hoses.
Turbo vane mechanism, actuator, solenoid or vac pipes (TD4 only)
RESIST ALL TEMPTATION TO REPLACE THE ECU, TURBO OR HIGH PRESSURE PUMP (the costly items) UNTIL ALL OTHER AVENUES HAVE BEEN EXPLORED.
TOPICS: click on one to jump to it.
A )STARTING PROBLEMS WITH OR WITHOUT POWER PROBLEMS
C) SMOKE WITH OR WITHOUT POWER LOSS
F) OIL PUMPING OUT OF THE DIPSTICK, BLUE SMOKE
Useful diagnostic aids: Can of Easy Start, Voltmeter, Fault Code reader, can of freezer spray (Maplins)
BASIC DIAGNOSTIC STEPS
Check for fault codes if poss. (needs a manufacturer specific type for pre 2004 diesels)
Disconnect maf sensor
Listen for the in tank pump
Tap the underbonnet one
Measure the voltage on the yellow/blue wire at the fuel filter pressure sensor - should be around 4v at all times.
Spray Easy Start in the air intake
Remove clean refit cam sensor
Check for injector leakback
DIFFICULT FAULTS - ELIMINATION STEPS:
Sometimes faults can be hard to identify with certainty and garages with little experience of these engines can often misdiagnose the problem.
If donor parts aren't available then I suggest changing parts in this order to minimise costs. Which steps you omit will depend upon the actual fault but leave the expensive items as the last resort. (seems obvious but you'd be surprised how many garages start with the most expensive!!)
SUMMARY OF CULPRITS in order of guilt - sort of!
MAF SENSOR. 30-40k but can last double that. Affects performance especially below 2500rpm and mpg but rarely causes starting or cutting out problems. Overfuelling mafs don't reduce the performance (can actually improve torque) but cause strong smell of diesel from the exhausts and/or lumpy idle and/or hesitation when accelerating and very poor mpg.
LOW PRESSURE PUMPS - IN-TANK AND UNDER BONNET wear out in 100k (under bonnet one not fitted to 2004> models) affects starting & cutting out but rarely just performance. Replacement of both is ultimately unavoidable.
INJECTOR LEAKBACK or FAULTY NEEDLE VALVE OR NOZZLE 100k upwards. Affects idling smoothness, starting and performance, mpg, faulty injector causes cloud of white/grey smoke smelling of diesel and engine can stop at 3000rpm on full throttle.
CAMSHAFT SENSOR varies - worse when hot. Indefinite. No affect on performance, only starting. Starting is much worse when hot.
LEAKING INTERCOOLER SEALS - affects low down torque as what boost pressure there is below 1500rpm leaks past the seals.
CLOGGED PCV VALVE - can cause erratic idle and stalling, as well as blue smoke from the exhaust.
CRANKSHAFT SENSOR. SEE CAM SENSOR
HP REGULATOR indefinite but usually well over 100k. Affects starting, performance & causes cutting out. Seal can be replaced but if plunger shows wear marks, replace the whole thing (£!00). NEW PHOTO HERE:
FUEL RAIL SENSOR indefinite. Engine won't rev and has no power under load but can also cause generally poor performance. The Freelander TD4 is prone to failure of this sensor. See below
FUEL LINES AND SWIRL POT IN LEFT HAND SIDE OF TANK. No wear and tear but pipes can fracture. Could be clogged if veg oil has ever been used.
HP PUMP lasts at least 200k+? A lot less if you use 100% biodiesel or the car has ever been filled with petrol or veg oil used. Did hear of ne case where a faulty filler pipe allowed water into the tank, this wrecked the injection pump and the resulting particles of metal contaminated the whole fuel system.
ECU - indefinite unless water ingress from blocked plenum drains, or careless jump starting. Likes a good battery.
TURBO - very reliable fixed geometry unit (Mitsubishi usually). Tends to be changed due to misdiagnosing a clogged pcv valve!
Fortunately, the most expensive items 11 - 14 very rarely fail and should only be replaced when all others have been eliminated. However the ecu & glow plug relay are damaged by water accumulating in the plenum chamber. You CANNOT fit a used ecu, it must be brand new or have had the security chip replaced by an Ecu specialist.
1 to 6 are the most common and the injectors should be regarded as a possible service item over 100k miles.
A) ENGINE FAILS TO START ESPECIALLY WHEN WARM, STOPS UNEXPECTEDLY, POWER LOSS, WON'T REV.
SEE section G also.
1) FUEL STARVATION DUE TO FAILURE OF ONE OR BOTH LOW PRESSURE FUEL PUMPS. (Common if mileage over 100k but can happen from 50k)
My 75 recently suffered from poor hot starting and I also noticed that the underbonnet pump was making louder, and very unusual noises. I could not hear the in tank pump (its under the right hand rear seat base) and so concluded it had failed. I was correct, it was dead, having failed after 4years and 103k miles due to the copper segments of the commutator having worn away. A new one was £240 plus a few pounds for a new seal.
The fault only seemed to show up when the fuel level was around the 1/4 mark. Its possible that the engine will run apparently normally with just the under bonnet pump working if the fuel level is kept above 1/3rd full. This has the advantage that failure of the in tank pump does not leave you stranded, assuming you have not run the fuel down below the 1/4 mark, but on the other hand, also masks the fault until the fuel gets low.
NB THE UNDER BONNET PUMP WILL FAIL FAIRLY QUICKLY IF THE IN TANK PUMP IS NOT WORKING. If your under bonnet one has failed, or needs a tap to make it run, do not assume that only it needs replacing. It may be failing, or have failed because the in tank one has not been working for some time.
So listen for both pumps (they should run for at least 20 seconds with just the ignition on) and then if the in tank one has failed, try replacing it only. This may give the under bonnet one a new lease of life. (Some later models do not have the under bonnet one, so it may be possible to bypass it)
Fault finding tip:
Connect a voltmeter to the low pressure sensor on the fuel filter housing, the voltage should be about 4volts, corresponding to a pressure of about 36psi with the ignition on, start the engine, the voltage will drop only briefly. If possible, extend the meter leads so you can read the voltage from inside the car whilst someone else is driving. The voltage should remain close to 4v with only brief dips even under full power.
The pump is supplied as the whole assembly as shown above (right) which also includes one of the fuel level sensors.
To remove it, lift the seat base out of the way by pushing down the rear edge whilst lifting the front edge. then remove the nuts holding the cover in place. With a long screwdriver placed horizontally across the top, and held against the raised bumps on the retaining ring, rotate the ring until it can be lifted off. Now the assembly can be carefully manoeuvred from the tank. In my case, I'd just brimmed the tank so diesel did spill out, though not into the interior.
Apparently the same actual pump is fitted to some Peugeot assemblies which are about £100 less than the Rover one. Its quiet easy to swap the pump over.
LINKS TO FORUMS THREADS ON THE SUBJECT INCLUDING PEUGEOT PUMP ALTERNATIVE
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=4512
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=21883
http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?t=123849
Costs & part nos:
In tank pump: WFX100933 Price
£184.82 + vat
In-tank pump: WFX000350 seems to be the pump for the later VIN numbers (5D332301
onward) Prices are the same. The later one maybe a more reliable as the
earlier one seems to suffer rapid wear of the commutator segments.
Under bonnet remote fuel pump is part number WQB100482, Price £138.07 ex VAT This is a straight forward diy job, just let the pump run without starting the engine after changing it.
Tank seals ESR3806A £1.76 from VIN 1D25643
The tank does not need to be removed- its accessed from underneath the rear seat squab.
Labour charge should be about 2hours for both, making total cost for supply and fit both pumps of about £600inc vat at a main dealer.
(I mention this because one owner
was charged over £1000 and they weren't even sure if this would fix it! Must
have been at Dick Turpin MGRover)
2) CAMSHAFT SENSOR. (quite common) This is used only during cranking to synchronise the timing by indicating when no1 cylinder is on its compression stroke. So if it is faulty, starting becomes difficult and may vary depending upon the temperature of the engine. Once running, as the sensor is no longer used, the car will run normally. This is one way to distinguish between camshaft sensor and crankshaft sensor failure.
LOCATION: See photo right- its to the left of the red connector, (in front of the oil filler cap looking from the front of the car)
TIP
1) Try a squirt of East Start. If the engine stops once the easy Start has been consumed, this MAY suggest that the sensor is faulty.
2) Remove the sensor and place cool in a freezer or spray briefly with freezer spray, If the engine starts it could confirm the sensor is faulty.
3) MAF SENSOR FAILURE (quite common, as opposed to the very commonplace degradation. More on this here)
Location - see photo 6 above
This often occurs after a journey in heavy rain and spray as well as just due to age and general unreliability. It is caused by spray being drawn into the air intake, and eventually impinging upon the Maf sensor. The poor quality Bosch heated sensor doesn't take kindly to taking a shower and expires before its time. A new one costs about £2-50, but a Mafam MF75 will compensate for any signal degradation so only replace the maf if it is completely dead or mpg has dropped due to the maf overfuelling the engine.
Symptoms: These vary depending how the maf is failing and may include some or all of the following:-
Loss of performance below 2000rpm, possibly ok above 2000rpm.
As above & / or marked reluctance to rev.
Mpg deteriorated for no apparent reason.
Uneven running at low revs, smoke, smelly exhaust, & 'choked' feel when pulling away. (needs more more revs to pull away smoothly)
Hesitates when starting to accelerate (with big puff of smoke)
Temporarily unplugging the maf cable gives an immediate improvement
Cleaning it with isopropyl alcohol (details here) can give a temporary improvement.
Get you home measure: Unplug the maf sensor plug
Don't forget, a Pierburg maf can be substituted for the Rover/Bosch one, saving you over £100. mafam page: BUT you also need a Mafam MF75p as the Pb maf doesn't have an IAT sensor built in, and does not have exactly the same response curve. (Pb maf + Mafam works better than Bosch maf and still costs about £60 less, AND is more reliable)
COMPATIBLE MAF WARNING. Personal experience and feedback from owners has shown that the 'clone' mafs widely sold in the trade and on Ebay are neither reliable nor predictable. You MAY be lucky and get a good one, but the chances are you won't, or it won't last for long. The official spare part sold by dealers for under £100 is NOT a Bosch one and I tried these but all were returned by my customers for refund within 3months. Needless to say X-Part (official MG-Rover spares distributor) have reduced the warranty from 12 to 3 months -so looks like my experience was typical. The Pierburgh maf I supply has a 12month warranty subject to it not becoming contaminated by a clogged pcv valve or dirty airfilter.
STOP PRESS. I believe X-Part may be now supplying a Pierburgh maf with intake air sensor recently introduced for BMW cars. I tried one of these and found it incompatible with the engine in the 75/ZT/TD4 (these cars have never used the same part no. maf as the BMW cars. On my 75, it overfuelled at low rpm and then had no power over 2500rpm.)
Here's why I loathe clone/cheap/incorrect mafs: -You would quite reasonably assume that the new maf is working properly and so, if you still have performance or fuel consumption issues, you may be inclined to waste money looking for other causes. When in fact, non exists and it is still a maf issue. Hence I only recommend the tried and tested Pierburgh maf + MF75p or Synergy 2.
THE SPRAY DEFLECTOR - DOES
YOUR CAR HAVE ONE?
A deflector shield shown above (with a round yellow label on it) is or should or can be fitted behind the radiator grille to keep the moisture away from the air intake.
4) CRANKSHAFT SENSOR (rare) This does not fail as often as the camshaft sensor and if starting is bad, eliminate this as the cause before changing the crank sensor. LOCATION: Just above the right hand end of the starter motor - WHICH MAY NEED REMOVING TO ACCESS IT.
5) INJECTOR ISSUES (relatively rare below 100k miles but have been know to occur at much lower mileage*)
These wear out and should be regarded as a potential service item and not just investigated as a 'last resort'. *They are far more likely to give problems if the car has been run with petrol in the tank or on veg oil or poor quality biodiesel.
Symptoms range from poor starting, worse when hot, uneven idle, poor performance, cutting out on full throttle, occasional white smoke & loud engine rattle. Any tuning product whether plug-in box or remap will make matters worse as it highlights the fuel pressure problem cause by worn and / or leaking injectors.
Usually a seal within an injector fails, allowing fuel to escape into the return pipe. This short circuits the rail pressure and prevents it reaching the 220bar required to activate the injectors at cranking speed. If the engine starts using Easy Start or a tow, then this can confirm injector leak back due to the higher engine speed generating enough pressure to overcome the leak. If the leak is excessive, insufficient fuel is left to supply the engine under full throttle and performance suffers and the ecu may stop the engine if the fuel pressure does reach the expected level. (usually at or over 3k rpm)
PLEASE NOTE, there seems to be some confusion on testing for leakback as opposed to checking for injector flow equality.
Leakback is unwanted leaking of fuel past the seals and out of the return orifice and causes bad starting and is done by CRANKING THE ENGINE ie not letting it start. During cranking the pressure must reach at least 300bar or the injectors will not open so there must be negligible leakback. You can often confirm leakback by tow starting or using Easystart - the higher engine speed produces a higher pressure which overcomes the leak and so the engine then starts.
When the engine is running there is always some surplus fuel issuing from the injector returns THIS IS NOT LEAKBACK hence the need to distinguish between testing during cranking and testing with the engine running.
The internal valving may also fail and the nozzle orifices can become clogged or worn so leak back is NOT the only fault. If the valving is faulty white or grey smoke smelling strongly of unburnt fuel will occur on large throttle openings and the engine can stop. Poor spray pattern gives uneven running and misfires, often the mpg will drop.
Servicing of an injector costs from around £75 -90, new ones are about £200 fitted. There is NO need to have all 4 replaced, though its recommended to have all of them tested and matched. They can be hard to remove, though the Haynes manual doesn't mention this!. Do not buy them off Ebay.
To remove the injectors, try soaking them for a couple of days in penetrating oil (not WD40) and then, having disconnected the connector and pipes, undo the retaining nuts a few turns and crank the engine over. Hopefully, the compression will dislodge them. You can also now buy an injector puller (slide hammer type) for about £40 which will usually shift stubborn ones.
FOR SERVICING OF FUEL SYSTEM COMPONENTS Please contact Alan Darby at Lynxdiesels.com in Wokingham
He comes highly recommended by the 75 & ZT owners who have used his services and his prices are very reasonable. Please note, you will need to have all 4 injectors checked as they need to be balanced as a set even if not all require attention.
6) FUEL RAIL PRESSURE SENSOR DIRTY. (quite rare - try the maf sensor first.)
Location - under the intake duct below the yellow arrow on photo 4 above
Unscrew the sensor and clean it being careful not to let dirt enter the orifice.
Also clean the contacts with switch cleaner. Failure is very rare and replacement about £80
Get you home measure: Unplug & reconnect the sensor connector a few times to improve the connection. Or leave it unplugged, though you will lose a lot of power.
Update 17-05-06 Recently two owners have reported the sensor was not very tightly screwed in. In one case it had been spraying fuel over the engine it was so loose.
7) FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR (quite rare)
One owner had power and eventually
starting problems. These were eventually traced to a leaking seal in the
pressure regulator (solenoid) which is bolted
onto the end of the high pressure
pump. The regulator can be unbolted and the seal replaced by a Bosch injection
specialist. Starter will need to be remove to gain access. If the regulator is
faulty the engine may cut out at 3000rpm or there may be starting and
general erratic performance. Petrol in the fuel, poor quality biodiesel or the
use of veg oil may well shorten the life of this component. A replacement is
about £100.
The microfilter can be seen on the end.
Contact Alan at Lynxdiesels.com for spares
8) MICROFILTER
There is a microfilter in the inlet to the high pressure pump which has been known to become partially clogged causing erratic performance, loss of power and engine cutting out. Remove the HP regulator to access it.
B) CUTTING OUT UNDER HARD ACCELERATION, POSSIBLY WITH BLACK OR WHITE / GREY SMOKE
1) This is usually due to a fuel supply issue. The requested fuel pressure is not being achieved so the ecu stops the engine in case the high pressure pump is damaged due to fuel starvation. SEE SECTION A) parts 1,6,7,8 See also section G
2) A faulty injector can also cause this. If idling is also rough, try unplugging the connector from each injector in turn, noting the effect each on has on the idle smoothness. The one which has the least effect or the most effect on idling will be defective. (Least effect if it its supplying less fuel, most effect if its over fuelling that cylinder) They can be serviced for about £75 so no need to replace them despite what the 'experts' may say.
C) LOSS OF POWER WITH LOTS OF BLACK SMOKE.
1) Most commonly due to a split in one of the hoses to/from the intercooler or a leaking seal at the intercooler inlet/outlet. Rarely, a faulty turbo - so check absolutely everything else first. Also check for leaking egr valve and wastegate jammed open or linkage fallen off.
SOME BLACK SMOKE - NO POWER LOSS, POOR MPG.
1) Maf sensor faulty - they can give out too high a signal rather than the more common loss of signal. This leads to some smoke, sooty marks on the bumper above the tailpipe and below average mpg. Because there is no loss of low down torque, the overfuelling maf sensor is often overlooked. Many owners have had much improved mpg by fitting a Pierburgh maf with a Mafam MF75p or Synergy 2.
2) Faulty injector. See comments in previous section.
3) FREELANDER (*only) - VARIABLE GEOMETRY TURBO MECHANISM, ACTUATOR OR SOLENOID malfunction can cause various symptoms. Beware the dealer doesn't try to blame the turbo when its one of the above! (*Fixed geometry turbo on the 75/ZT and very reliable)
D) LANDROVER TD4 SPECIFIC FAULTS:
1) PROBLEM DUE TO WATER INGRESS INTO THE WIRING TO THE FUEL RAIL SENSOR.
Landrover tech bulletin 00052 details the following faults and the fix:
POOR STARTING - takes a bit more cranking than usual.
POOR IDLE - e.g idle speeds sometimes drops down to 500 as well as being unstable.
HESITATION - often there's a delay before it accelerates
POOR PERFORMANCE e.g engine slow to rev, especially below 2500rpm
The cause is bad/corroded connections at the rail pressure sensor and ecu terminals. Requires new harness no YMQ503320, SENSOR STC4768, O RING MYX000040. The harness replaces the existing wiring between ecu and sensor. One owner had the above problems and initially suspected the maf sensor as the symptoms are roughly similar. A Pierburgh maf and Mafam MF75p were tried to no avail. His local Landrover dealer fitted the above parts from stock (they had lots in stock as its a common problem apparently) and this cured all the symptoms.
The same symptoms may occur on the 75 and ZT for the same reason and could account for the difficulty some owners have in pinning down these faults.
I suggest cleaning the rail pressure sensor contacts with switch cleaner as a first step. If this makes any difference, then fit the above parts. (There may well be one more than one cause of these symptoms so check the maf sensor first)
2) TURBO RELATED PROBLEM: WARNING LIGHT COMES ON AT CONSTANT SPEED WITH LOSS OF POWER
A TD4 owner asked my opinion on a problem that only occurred at steady speeds. The mil would come on accompanied by a loss of power. The car was fine around town. All the usual suspects had been looked at or changed (low pressure pump, maf, egr valve cleaned, a new turbo had been fitted 18months earlier)
I thought it may be a problem with boost pressure control and indeed it turned out to be a faulty actuator controlling the turbo's vane mechanism. (Unlike the 75 & ZT, the TD4 has a variable geometry turbo with a vacuum operated mechanism.
E) WATER LOGGED ECU (Not TD4)
The ecu resides in the passenger side plenum - the space between the two bulkheads, just in front of the windscreen.
There are drain holes either side and two inside in the base, one under the brake servo and one under the ecu. If any of them becomes blocked, the plenum fills up with water, submerging the ecu. Early indications of failure are erratic tacho readings and cruise control problems due the Can Bus components being damaged.
NB The heater plug control module also reside in this chamber and is equally at risk.
Regularly check the drain holes (e.g. for dead leaves) and also poke a stiff wire (straightened coat hanger) down to make sure the end isn't obstructed.
As you can see below, a leaf is partially obstructing my right hand side one and about to block the left hand one as well. Just as well I checked them!
The ecu is under the grille in the photo below, though there is another cover over it.
TIP:
Buy a water level detector, eg one made to detect your bath overflowing and fit it in the plenum chamber. It will alert you before any damage is done.
F) WEBASTO DIESEL POWERED HEATER
It should come on when the air temp is below 5C and the engine is cold. If not :-
i) Check fuse 8 in the engine bay fuse box. Replace with a 20amp one if blown.
ii) Remove and refit the fuse to reset the unit. (It disables itself after 3 failed startup attempts)
iii) Listen for a ticking noise from just below the drivers side rear footwell. It is the solenoid operated fuel pump. No noise means either it has seized due to lack of use or has failed. Try tapping it gently with a hammer or American screwdriver to free it. failure of the electronic module seems quite common.
iv) Sometimes the FBH can affect other systems as it is connected to the cars K bus. Try unplugging the multiplug.
G) OIL PUMPS OUT OF THE DIPSTICK AND EXHAUST SMOKE IS BLUE.
The PCV valve has jammed. This is quite common and must be rectified asap as the increased crankcase pressure will damage the oil seals. See above for pcv details.
I am grateful for the information provided by the owners who managed to find these faults after eliminating all the usual suspects.
A) Engine slow to start, runs okay sometimes, may cut out and then won't start. FIX: Remove and clean the injector plugs. Also check the wiring for signs of damage and loose connections.
B) Engine cuts out at 4000rpm. The fault code indicated pressure regulator faulty causing erratic fuel pressure but it was the fuel rail pressure sensor. I recommend checking the wiring to it as well - it has been known to break internally.
8) ON BOARD DIAGNOSTICS - EOBD.
YOU CANNOT USE A GENERIC CODE READER ON PRE 2004 DIESELS TO READ OR CLEAR FAULT CODES.
A generic tool can only read sensor data through the diagnostic socket (assuming it has that ability - some basic ones only read & clear fault codes on post 2004 diesels.)
It does not matter what make they are, or whether standalone or laptop based, they CANNOT read fault codes or turn off the mil. If you try, they will tell you there are no fault codes and the mil is off, when its clearly on. If you want to test them, simply disconnect the plug from the pressure sensor on the fuel filter and start the engine. The mil will come on and a fault code will be logged. Now try and read it. (The mil will go off when you reconnect the sensor plug.)
You need a manufacturer specific tool such as Sykes Pickavant ACR4, with a Rover v4 pod and Rover harness. Snap On and Launch and others also exist but expect to pay £500 +
The reason these work and generic ones don't is that these do not have the security protocols built in which are needed to negotiate access to the full ecu diagnostics. From 2004, manufacturers were obliged to give access to many, mainly emissions related diagnostics by any generic tool. (This has been the case with petrol engines from about 2001.)
RESETTING THE SERVICE INDICATOR.
Having done your own servicing, you may need to reset the service indicator back to 15000.
Follow this link to the MGRover forum for details.
Basically you link pins 4 and 8 of the diagnostic connector with a paper clip or piece of wire, turn on the ignition and wait several seconds. I have not tried this and cannot vouch for it, but no problems have been reported doing it.
(C) RJONES E&OE I am grateful to those owners who have passed on details of their unusual faults and fixes and have allowed me to publish the details for the benefit of other owners.