SERVICING AND FAULTS
AS FITTED TO THE ROVER 75, MG ZT, FREELANDER TD4 PRE 2007 AND BMW DIESELS.
REVISED AND UPDATED July 2010
TOPICS
INTRODUCTION : UNDER THE BONNET OF THE 75 / ZT
GETTING THE BEST FROM THE ENGINE DON'T NEGLECT IT...
GENERAL SERVICING. GET YOUR HANDS DIRTY
SPECIALISED SERVICING: - CLEANING THE EGR VALVE
CLEANING THE PCV ASSEMBLY - new
COMMON ENGINE FAULTS updated 5-6-10 MORE INFO ON FAULT DIAGNOSIS
ON BOARD DIAGNOSTICS & SERVICE INDICATOR RESETTING,
The BMW M47R 16v chain driven DOHC engine. Made by BMW in Steyr, Austria, it superior to most other diesels, being smooth and quiet, but not as quick to rev as some diesels probably due to having a heavier flywheel. This improves the smoothness but hinders the throttle response somewhat.
It can also be found in the Freelander TD4 '99-'06 and BMW owners will recognise the engine in longitudinally mounted form in their cars.
Unlike the version fitted to the 136bhp BMW 320d, it has Bosch common rail fuel injection and was the first passenger vehicle in Europe to have this.
With the cover removed the engine is barely any noisier. The inlet manifold is plastic and the air filter is at the back to the right of and behind the oil filler cap.
I'm not overly impressed by that air duct supplying the air filter in the Rover 75/ MG ZT. Those corrugated bellows are best removed and this also reduces the chances of spray ingestion which damages the maf. (see tuning page)
The turbo is hard to see, let alone get at except from below.
THE MAF SENSOR IS THE SINGLE MOST COMMON CAUSE OF POOR PERFORMANCE BELOW 2000RPM.
The Maf sensor shown opposite, is a Bosch one but has a Pierburgh style connector. So a Pierburgh one will fit straight in, though you will need a Mafam Mf75p or Synergy 2 since the Pierburgh maf is a Merc one.
You have to remove the air filter cover to get to it.
If the Bosch sensor is only mildy out of spec, a Mafam MF75p or preferably, a Synergy 2 can be fitted to boost its signal. Then when needed, a Pierburgh maf can be fitted when needed at minimal cost (£68)
Here's a comment from a Mafam MF75 customer...
The CAM SENSOR can be seen in front of the oil filler (to the right of it in the photo above, opposite.
The EGR valve - see below for how to clean it.
The Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve feeds cooled exhaust gas into the inlet manifold on light throttle and steady speed conditions. This reduces NOx emissions, reduces particulates and minimises fuel consumption.
The ecu uses the MAF signal to control it, since if exhaust gas replaces 'fresh air' the maf signal will drop. The valve is operated by vacuum from the brake servo line and the ecu modulates this via a solenoid valve to regulate the amount of exhaust gas being drawn in.
When the throttle is opened it closes and so in theory it should not affect power delivery.
However, as with the L series, disabling it by simply disconnecting the vacuum tube (& plugging this with a bolt) often improves the throttle response below 2000rpm, giving a bit more torque and quicker response.
It seems to be due to the ecu not closing it immediately when the throttle is opened gradually.
A faulty maf sensor will affect egr operation and can cause flat spots, vibration and hesitation when first opening the throttle, especially around 17-1800rpm.
Removing that 8mm braided tube visible in the bottom of the photo disables it.
I have left mine disconnected for the past 5k miles with no detriment.
EGR BYPASS PIPE. You can now obtain a straight through egr replacement. This just bolts on in place of the EGR valve, giving improved unobstructed airflow into the inlet manifold and eliminating the need ever to clean it. Contact Dave for price and delivery. More details here
2) GETTING THE BEST FROM THE ENGINE.
I cannot emphasise enough that this engine will never perform properly if neglected and money spent tuning it may give disappointing results. The oil and all filters should be changed every 10-15k miles max: change the oil and filter twice as often if you've tuned it. (Tuning it will increase the sooting up of the oil) Don't waste money on fancy oils - nothing can turn carbon into a lubricant so if the oil is like sludge it matters not whether it was £10 /Lor 10p /L, it should not be allowed to get that bad. I recommend Millers XFD or XFE - see millersoils.net for your local stockist and buy some Ecomax diesel fuel additive at the same time and use it all the time.
In addition, I do not recommend supermarket fuels, but prefer Shell Extra or V Power. Many a rough & noisy engine is due to cheap fuel. There's whisky and there's a 12year old malt...
These are the items that MUST be attended to if the mileage is over about 75k or age is over 5years. Ignore any service history, the majority of dealers can't be trusted to replace a bulb and the previous owner may have been a skinflint!!
MAF SENSOR*, PCV VALVE, EGR VALVE^, INTERCOOLER SEALS¬, Freelander TD4 only -VARIABLE GEOMETRY MECHANISM + ACTUATOR + SOLENOID + associated vacuum pipes.
By 100k miles you can expect to have replaced the low pressure fuel pumps, eventually have the injectors serviced due to leakback, and may need new intercooler hoses due to leaks.
* Hopefully you will have fitted one of my Synergy 2 and Pierburgh maf combinations so won't have any maf problems!
^ One of Dave Lyon's (wingspeed / evotomturbo) egr bypasses makes a massive difference, especially on a tuned engine.
¬ Viton seals are available from jma-cars.co.uk
I find it sad when such superb vehicles are neglected by owners who won't spend the modest sums required to properly maintain the car. They will have spent less than half the money buying it, of anything comparable. However, those who cannot do the work themselves are unfortunately, at the mercy of the dealers, the majority of whom are in it purely for the money. Just remember that the very expensive items such as turbo, injection pump and ecu rarely fail and should ONLY be changed as a last resort.
3) GENERAL SERVICING AND MAINTENANCE.
For servicing and repairs try:
Lates600.com (Coventry)
Car Tuning Clinic (Edinburgh, has rolling road dyno)
Lynxdiesels.com for Injectors, injector overhaul and injection parts (Wokingham)
jma-cars.co.uk Intercooler seals, radiator fan resistors etc
Rimmerbros.co.uk Official parts stockist
The first thing I do having bought a used car is to give it a service, regardless of any 'service history'.
So all the filters are changed, the oil replaced with Millers XFD or XFE, Millers Diesel Power Plus is added to the fuel to clean and lubricate the entire fuel system (and added continuously thereafter), the brake pads are checked, tyres pressures checked and the entire car inspected. If the mileage is over 50k I recommend cleaning the egr valve and replacing the pcv assembly. (see below)
Next Waxoyl is applied to the underside where there are any signs of rust.
Rimmer Bros are one of the official parts suppliers and you can order online or download a pdf pricelist. (Their online ordering is cronky but the parts came 2days later so it works once you've figured how to actually use it - its somewhat non-intuitive!!!)
Now that factory warranties are no more, I will be progressively adding pages covering routine servicing, though Haynes have now published a manual for the 75 & ZT its manual no. 4292.
Most of it is straightforward and amounts to simply oil , oil and air filters, with less frequent fuel filter and brake pad replacement.
Oil & air filters cost about £45inc vat & p&p from Rimmerbros and 6.75L of Millers XFE semi-synthetic oil costs about £20 so you can do it yourself for well under £70 or under £100 including fuel filter change.
Air, oil and fuel filters >>>>>>>>>>>>
Front pads are £65 a set delivered, the pollen filter is £42 delivered.
The air, oil & fuel filters.
REPLACING THE FUEL FILTER:
Slacken the 10mm nut which clamps the fixing strap - its around the other
side. Undo it until the filter is moveable - there is no need to remove
the nut completely.
Detach the fuel lines by squeezing the pale blue retaining clips - place a rag under the filter to catch any small spillages.
Disconnect the fuel pressure sensor - shown opposite.
Now withdraw the filter vertically.
Next unscrew the canister from the top part and screw on the new one. Do NOT use excessive force.
Finally, reverse the above steps to refit it.
Turn on the ignition but do not start the engine. The electric pump will be heard making uneven noises as it primes the filter. After about 30seconds it will settle down to a steady note.
Check for any leaks on the filter's seal and both fuel connections and if all is okay, start the engine.
REPLACING THE OIL & FILTER. (do it whilst the engine is warm)
TIP: When checking the oil, the dipstick will show empty when first withdrawn - don't panic! Reinsert it!
You will need to remove the under tray after jacking up the
front of the car an supporting it on stands
.
Then you will see the sump drain plug - a large container is needed as the sump hold 6 litres.
After draining the oil off the filter can be replaced..
The filter is not the usual screw on metal canister type, but is a bare paper element type that lives in the housing under the large cap shown opposite.
Wipe around the housing and cap first.
You will need a 37-38mm socket to undo the cap.
Once removed you will see the element and it can be withdrawn from the housing.
Insert the new one, making sure it is pushed right down onto the spigot. It will be a firm fit.
Fit the replacement 'o' ring to the cap and screw it down. If the other 2 seals are supplied with the filter, replace those as well - they are located on the central tapered core attached to the cap.
Tighten it little more than hand tight.(24nm)
Once the engine has been refilled, start the engine but do NOT rev it. The oil pressure light should turn off after a few seconds. Now check for leaks and then recheck the level as it will have dropped when the oil filter was primed.
REPLACING THE AIR FILTER. NB a dirty filter can lead to maf sensor contamination which will damage it and also invalidate any remaining maf warranty.
You will need to remove the oil filler cap and then: -
a) 3 x 8mm bolts holding the engine cover on.
b) 5 x 5mm hex bolts holding the air filter cover on. There are three at the front top edge, and 2 at the rear, lower down. See photo below.
Once the bolts have been loosened
as they are captive bolts, do not try to remove them from the filter
cover.
c) 2 screws holding the air duct to the inlet manifold. Then pull the duct towards you, against the bellows so it detaches from the air filter cover.
Finally, lift the cover vertically to reveal the air filter.
It lifts out right hand end first as it is just a push fit over the spigot at the left hand end.
Clean out any debris from inside the air box before fitting the new filter in.
TIP: If you cannot get the bolts to 'take', you have not refitted the cover properly. The left hand end has a narrow slot in it and you will probably have missed the slot when replacing the cover.
4) SPECIALISED SERVICING ITEMS a and b SHOULD NOT BE OVERLOOKED - BOTH CAN SERIOUSLY AFFECT THE PERFORMANCE AND FUEL CONSUMPTION. A clogged PCV valve can cause major problems by causing a pressurised crankcase.
This section covers things which are not routine but which make a significant difference, particularly on higher mileage engines. Most dealers won't have a clue about them.
a) 
CLEANING
THE EGR VALVE (best
replaced with a bypass one)
This is what it looks like after 99k miles! Why?
This condition is due to the crankcase ventilation system which requires that crankcase fumes be burnt rather than vented into the atmosphere.
So oil laden fumes are drawn into the intake duct on the inlet side of the turbo and pass through this, then through the intercooler and finally through the egr valve to the inlet manifold. You will find the interior of the intercooler and its hoses very oily as a result. As the cylinder bores wear, more combustion gases escape past the piston rings and the volume of crankcase fumes increases. So the accumulation of 'crud' can be considerable - as you can see from my 99k mile car.
This the mounting flange :
Its removal is obvious, just 4 nuts and a hose clip and another similar type of fastening on the exhaust supply pipe.
I don't think it does anything for the airflow in this condition!
I snapped a hacksaw blade in two to use a scraper and then plenty of swarfega and a toothbrush (swafega is good because being a gel, it can be left to soak in and can be rinsed off with warm water)
I also took off the inlet manifold to clean the mating flange. Ideally I should have used new rubber seals when refitting it and it would have been preferable to soak it in degreaser overnight as the interior was as gunged up as the egr valve. Otherwise there isn't really any way of getting the insides clean. I have heard of owners putting it in the dish washer or blasting the insides with a pressure washer. The former idea could lead to a divorce proceedings!
I am not overly impressed with the egr valve assembly. As you can see, even when clean, there is quite an obstruction to the airflow due to the exhaust gas inlet and the brass valve stem boss. If I was going to leave it disconnected, I might be tempted to get out my die grinder, but now there's no need - another owner manufacturers a low cost bypass pipe.
EGR BYPASS PIPE. You can now obtain a straight through egr replacement. This just bolts on in place of the EGR valve, giving improved unobstructed airflow into the inlet manifold and eliminating the need ever to clean it.
Checkout EVOTOMTURBO on Ebay for them. Beware, another ebayer (kazet273 - read his feeback..) is selling his version - ITS NOT the same.
NB I ONLY ENDORSE THE ONES FROM EVOTOMTURBO (Dave Lyon) but have no control over delivery and do not stock them. I'm told by Dave that these are now cnc machined for grater accuracy and feature a boost gauge take off as well.
b) CLEANING THE PCV - The crankcase
ventilation valve assembly.
If oil pumps out of the dipstick and the engine produces blueish smoke the PCV vale has failed and must be changed asap or the excessive crankcase pressure will damage the engine's oil seals.
I have heard of owners being told they need a new turbo or even a new engine due to mis diagnosing the blue smoke caused by a clogged pcv valve.
If clogged, this has been shown to contribute to black exhaust smoke and a somewhat rougher engine so is worthwhile cleaning or replacing it especially on higher mileage engines. It is to be found just behind the injector wiring and is easily accessible with just the engine cover removed.
It is also possible for a large excess of crankcase fumes to enter the induction system, and since they do this after the maf, the maf signal drops causing erratic idle and possible stalling, as well as bluish smoke from the exhaust.
This is the assembly and it's held on with 4, 5mm hex (allen) screws.
You will need to remove the injector wiring support screws (a 5mm socket fits) and lift it aside, then disconnect the return pipes from injectors 2 and 3. Carefully remove the retaining clips and gently prise out the tee pieces.
Then once the assembly has been removed, pull off the filter retaining clip and remove the filter, don't lose the 'o' ring.
The felt filter can then washed in white spirit and then detergent and left to try in a warm place if its not to be replaced. Do NOT be tempted to omit it - its more of an oil separator than an air filter.
The part no. for the whole assembly is
LLJ000060 Valve assembly-depression control
and the cost is about £50. but is cheaper from a BMW dealer
and a new design is supplied which does not use a filter.
If the valve side (on the right in the adjacent photo) is very dirty, rinse it with white spirit as well.
Here's a related thread on the 75and ZT club forum:
I advise replacing it every 36K miles and more frequently on high mileage engines.
It is now a service item - every 2years on BMW vehicles.
c) ACCELERATOR PEDAL ADJUSTMENT.
When using my ACR4 diagnostic tool I noticed that the pedal demand readings were not reaching 100% even if I stomped on the pedal as hard as possible. (96% was as high as they went - the sensor has two outputs, one half the other, 1.8volts and 3.6volts at full throttle equal 99%)
So I adjusted the 'stop' under the pedal. Its locked in place with a 13mm locknut on the underside of the plastic mushroom head. It took a few turns to get it to read 99%.
6) CAR MECHANICS MAGAZINES FOR 75 and ZT OWNERS
The editor has kindly sent me several recent issues which I can recommend to all 75 / ZT owners. In the absence of a Haynes manual, these will prove invaluable and should be added to your arsenal of servicing tools.
NOVEMBER 2005 AIRCON FAN REPLACEMENT
DECEMBER 2005 75/ZT CDT CLUTCH CHANGE
JANUARY 2006 GEARBOX REBUILD
FEBRUARY 2006 CDT SERVICE GUIDE
MARCH 2006 BRAKE CHECK, CHANGING MAF SENSOR
APRIL 2006 PETROL ENGINE PROBLEMS
NOVEMBER 2006 TU3 (Synergy 1) TUNING MODULE REVIEW
FEBRUARY 2007 Synergy 1 FOLLOW UP REPORT.
Back issues are available from the publishers for £3.80 each
HAYNES NOW ALSO PUBLISH A MANUAL FOR THE 75/ZT
STOP PRESS 3-09-09: LANDROVER TD4 ENGINE PROBLEM UPDATE? Landrover tech bulletin 00052 details the following faults and the fix:
POOR STARTING - takes a bit more cranking than usual.
POOR IDLE - e.g idle speeds sometimes drops down to 500 as well as being unstable.
HESITATION - often there's a delay before it accelerates
POOR PERFORMANCE e.g engine slow to rev, especially below 2500rpm
The cause is bad/corroded connections at the rail pressure sensor and ecu terminals. Requires new harness no YMQ503320, SENSOR STC4768, O RING MYX000040. The harness replaces the existing wiring between ecu and sensor. One owner had the above problems and initially suspected the maf sensor as the symptoms are roughly similar. A Pierburgh maf and Mafam MF75p were tried to no avail. His local Landrover dealer fitted the above parts from stock (they had lots in stock as its a common problem apparently) and this cured all the symptoms.
The same symptoms may occur on the 75 and ZT for the same reason and could account for the difficulty some owners have in pinning down these faults.
I suggest cleaning the rail pressure sensor contacts with switch cleaner as a first step. If this makes any difference, then fit the above parts. (There may well be one more than one cause of these symptoms so check the maf sensor first)
WARNING LIGHT COMES ON AT CONSTANT SPEED WITH LOSS OF POWER
A TD4 owner asked my opinion on a problem that only occurred at steady speeds. The mil would come on accompanied by a loss of power. The car was fine around town. All the usual suspects had been looked at or changed (low pressure pump, maf, egr valve cleaned, a new turbo had been fitted 18months earlier)
I thought it may be a problem with boost pressure control and indeed it turned out to be a faulty actuator controlling the turbo's vane mechanism. (Unlike the 75 & ZT, the TD4 has a variable geometry turbo with a vacuum operated mechanism.
The BMW engine is very reliable but as the miles accumulate inevitably some item suffer from wear and tear. Sadly, some of the dealers are out of their depth with diesel engine management and related issues and if not careful, you will be paying for their trial and error method rather than their expertise!
For example: one owner was charged £1500 by a main dealer (the experts?) who failed to cure a power problem. A Mafam MF75p costing £54 solved the problem - it was an out of spec maf sensor. (doesn't cause fault codes so they were stumped)
Another owner was told he needed a new turbo or engine overhaul because of some blue smoke in the exhaust. The owner cleaned the pcv valve and cured it himself for nothing! (why do the so called experts always blame the most expensive item - don't ask!)
Yet another spent over £3000 starting with injectors, changing every single component and ending back at the injectors which had not been serviced or replaced as claimed by the garage the first time. ITS NOT ADEQUATE TO JUST STICK THEM IN AN ULTRSONIC CLEANER CHAPS..!
RESIST ALL TEMPTATION TO REPLACE THE ECU, TURBO OR HIGH PRESSURE PUMP (the costly items) UNTIL ALL OTHER AVENUES HAVE BEEN EXPLORED.
TOPICS: click on one to jump to it.
A )STARTING PROBLEMS WITH OR WITHOUT POWER PROBLEMS
C) SMOKE WITH OR WITHOUT POWER LOSS
F) OIL PUMPING OUT OF THE DIPSTICK, BLUE SMOKE
Useful diagnostic aids: Can of Easy Start, Voltmeter, Fault Code reader, can of freezer spray (Maplins)
BASIC DIAGNOSTIC STEPS
Check for fault codes if poss. (needs a manufacturer specific type for pre 2004 diesels)
Disconnect maf sensor
Listen for the in tank pump
Tap the underbonnet one
Measure the voltage on the yellow/blue wire at the fuel filter pressure sensor - should be around 4v at all times.
Spray Easy Start in the air intake
Remove clean refit cam sensor
Check for injector leakback
DIFFICULT FAULTS - ELIMINATION STEPS:
Sometimes faults can be hard to identify with certainty and garages with little experience of these engines can often misdiagnose the problem.
If donor parts aren't available then I suggest changing parts in this order to minimise costs. Which steps you omit will depend upon the actual fault but leave the expensive items as the last resort. (seems obvious but you'd be surprised how many garages start with the most expensive!!)
SUMMARY OF CULPRITS in order of guilt - sort of!
MAF SENSOR. 30-40k but can last double that. Affects performance especially below 2500rpm and mpg but rarely causes starting or cutting out problems. Overfuelling mafs don't reduce the performance (can actually improve torque) but cause strong smell of diesel from the exhausts and/or lumpy idle and/or hesitation when accelerating and very poor mpg.
LOW PRESSURE PUMPS - IN-TANK AND UNDER BONNET wear out in 100k (under bonnet one not fitted to 2004> models) affects starting & cutting out but rarely just performance. Replacement of both is ultimately unavoidable.
INJECTOR LEAKBACK or FAULTY NEEDLE VALVE OR NOZZLE 100k upwards. Affects idling smoothness, starting and performance, mpg, faulty injector causes cloud of white/grey smoke smelling of diesel and engine can stop at 3000rpm on full throttle.
CAMSHAFT SENSOR varies - worse when hot. Indefinite. No affect on performance, only starting. Starting is much worse when hot.
LEAKING INTERCOOLER SEALS - affects low down torque as what boost pressure there is below 1500rpm leaks past the seals.
CLOGGED PCV VALVE - can cause erratic idle and stalling, as well as blue smoke from the exhaust.
CRANKSHAFT SENSOR. SEE CAM SENSOR
HP REGULATOR indefinite but usually well over 100k. Affects starting, performance & causes cutting out. Seal can be replaced but if plunger shows wear marks, replace the whole thing (£!00)
FUEL RAIL SENSOR indefinite. Engine won't rev and has no power under load but can also cause generally poor performance.
FUEL LINES AND SWIRL POT IN LEFT HAND SIDE OF TANK. No wear and tear but pipes can fracture. Could be clogged if veg oil has ever been used.
HP PUMP lasts at least 200k+? A lot less if you use 100% biodiesel or the car has ever been filled with petrol or veg oil used.
ECU - indefinite unless water ingress from blocked plenum drains, or careless jump starting. Likes a good battery.
TURBO - very reliable fixed geometry unit (Mitsubishi usually). Tends to be changed due to misdiagnosing a clogged pcv valve!
Fortunately, the most expensive items 11 - 14 very rarely fail and should only be replaced when all others have been eliminated. However the ecu & glow plug relay are damaged by water accumulating in the plenum chamber. You CANNOT fit a used ecu, it must be brand new or have had the security chip replaced by an Ecu specialist.
1 to 6 are the most common and the injectors should be regarded as a possible service item over 100k miles.
A) ENGINE FAILS TO START ESPECIALLY WHEN WARM, STOPS UNEXPECTEDLY, POWER LOSS, WON'T REV.
SEE section G also.
1) FUEL STARVATION DUE TO FAILURE OF ONE OR BOTH LOW PRESSURE FUEL PUMPS. (Common if mileage over 100k but can happen from 50k)
My 75 recently suffered from poor hot starting and I also noticed that the underbonnet pump was making louder, and very unusual noises. I could not hear the in tank pump (its under the right hand rear seat base) and so concluded it had failed. I was correct, it was dead, having failed after 4years and 103k miles due to the copper segments of the commutator having worn away. A new one was £240 plus a few pounds for a new seal.
The fault only seemed to show up when the fuel level was around the 1/4 mark. Its possible that the engine will run apparently normally with just the under bonnet pump working if the fuel level is kept above 1/3rd full. This has the advantage that failure of the in tank pump does not leave you stranded, assuming you have not run the fuel down below the 1/4 mark, but on the other hand, also masks the fault until the fuel gets low.
NB THE UNDER BONNET PUMP WILL FAIL FAIRLY QUICKLY IF THE IN TANK PUMP IS NOT WORKING. If your under bonnet one has failed, or needs a tap to make it run, do not assume that only it needs replacing. It may be failing, or have failed because the in tank one has not been working for some time.
So listen for both pumps (they should run for at least 20 seconds with just the ignition on) and then if the in tank one has failed, try replacing it only. This may give the under bonnet one a new lease of life. (Some later models do not have the under bonnet one, so it may be possible to bypass it)
Fault finding tip:
Connect a voltmeter to the low pressure sensor on the fuel filter housing, the voltage should be about 4volts, corresponding to a pressure of about 36psi with the ignition on, start the engine, the voltage will drop only briefly. If possible, extend the meter leads so you can read the voltage from inside the car whilst someone else is driving. The voltage should remain close to 4v with only brief dips even under full power.
The pump is supplied as the whole assembly as shown above (right) which also includes one of the fuel level sensors.
To remove it, lift the seat base out of the way by pushing down the rear edge whilst lifting the front edge. then remove the nuts holding the cover in place. With a long screwdriver placed horizontally across the top, and held against the raised bumps on the retaining ring, rotate the ring until it can be lifted off. Now the assembly can be carefully manoeuvred from the tank. In my case, I'd just brimmed the tank so diesel did spill out, though not into the interior.
Apparently the same actual pump is fitted to some Peugeot assemblies which are about £100 less than the Rover one. Its quiet easy to swap the pump over.
LINKS TO FORUMS THREADS ON THE SUBJECT INCLUDING PEUGEOT PUMP ALTERNATIVE
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=4512
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=21883
http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?t=123849
Costs & part nos:
In tank pump: WFX100933 Price
£184.82 + vat
In-tank pump: WFX000350 seems to be the pump for the later VIN numbers (5D332301
onward) Prices are the same. The later one maybe a more reliable as the
earlier one seems to suffer rapid wear of the commutator segments.
Under bonnet remote fuel pump is part number WQB100482, Price £138.07 ex VAT This is a straight forward diy job, just let the pump run without starting the engine after changing it.
Tank seals ESR3806A £1.76 from VIN 1D25643
The tank does not need to be removed- its accessed from underneath the rear seat squab.
Labour charge should be about 2hours for both, making total cost for supply and fit both pumps of about £600inc vat at a main dealer.
(I mention this because one owner
was charged over £1000 and they weren't even sure if this would fix it! Must
have been at Dick Turpin MGRover)
2) CAMSHAFT SENSOR. (quite common) This is used only during cranking to synchronise the timing by indicating when no1 cylinder is on its compression stroke. So if it is faulty, starting becomes difficult and may vary depending upon the temperature of the engine. Once running, as the sensor is no longer used, the car will run normally. This is one way to distinguish between camshaft sensor and crankshaft sensor failure.
LOCATION: See photo right- its to the left of the red connector, (in front of the oil filler cap looking from the front of the car)
TIP
1) Try a squirt of East Start. If the engine stops once the easy Start has been consumed, this MAY suggest that the sensor is faulty.
2) Remove the sensor and place cool in a freezer or spray briefly with freezer spray, If the engine starts it could confirm the sensor is faulty.
3) MAF SENSOR FAILURE (quite common, as opposed to the very commonplace degradation. More on this here)
Location - see photo 6 above
This often occurs after a journey in heavy rain and spray as well as just due to age and general unreliability. It is caused by spray being drawn into the air intake, and eventually impinging upon the Maf sensor. The poor quality Bosch heated sensor doesn't take kindly to taking a shower and expires before its time. A new one costs about £2-50, but a Mafam MF75 will compensate for any signal degradation so only replace the maf if it is completely dead or mpg has dropped due to the maf overfuelling the engine.
Symptoms: These vary depending how the maf is failing and may include some or all of the following:-
Loss of performance below 2000rpm, possibly ok above 2000rpm.
As above & / or marked reluctance to rev.
Mpg deteriorated for no apparent reason.
Uneven running at low revs, smoke, smelly exhaust, & 'choked' feel when pulling away. (needs more more revs to pull away smoothly)
Hesitates when starting to accelerate (with big puff of smoke)
Temporarily unplugging the maf cable gives an immediate improvement
Cleaning it with isopropyl alcohol (details here) can give a temporary improvement.
Get you home measure: Unplug the maf sensor plug
Don't forget, a Pierburg maf can be substituted for the Rover/Bosch one, saving you over £100. mafam page: BUT you also need a Mafam MF75p as the Pb maf doesn't have an IAT sensor built in, and does not have exactly the same response curve. (Pb maf + Mafam works better than Bosch maf and still costs about £60 less, AND is more reliable)
COMPATIBLE MAF WARNING. Personal experience and feedback from owners has shown that the 'clone' mafs widely sold in the trade and on Ebay are neither reliable nor predictable. You MAY be lucky and get a good one, but the chances are you won't, or it won't last for long. The official spare part sold by dealers for under £100 is NOT a Bosch one and I tried these but all were returned by my customers for refund within 3months. Needless to say X-Part (official MG-Rover spares distributor) have reduced the warranty from 12 to 3 months -so looks like my experience was typical. The Pierburgh maf I supply has a 12month warranty subject to it not becoming contaminated by a clogged pcv valve or dirty airfilter.
STOP PRESS. I believe X-Part may be now supplying a Pierburgh maf with intake air sensor recently introduced for BMW cars. I tried one of these and found it incompatible with the engine in the 75/ZT/TD4 (these cars have never used the same part no. maf as the BMW cars. On my 75, it overfuelled at low rpm and then had no power over 2500rpm.)
Here's why I loathe clone/cheap/incorrect mafs: -You would quite reasonably assume that the new maf is working properly and so, if you still have performance or fuel consumption issues, you may be inclined to waste money looking for other causes. When in fact, non exists and it is still a maf issue. Hence I only recommend the tried and tested Pierburgh maf + MF75p or Synergy 2.
THE SPRAY DEFLECTOR - DOES
YOUR CAR HAVE ONE?
A deflector shield shown above (with a round yellow label on it) is or should or can be fitted behind the radiator grille to keep the moisture away from the air intake.
4) CRANKSHAFT SENSOR (rare) This does not fail as often as the camshaft sensor and if starting is bad, eliminate this as the cause before changing the crank sensor. LOCATION: Just above the right hand end of the starter motor - WHICH MAY NEED REMOVING TO ACCESS IT.
5) INJECTOR ISSUES (relatively rare below 100k miles but have been know to occur at much lower mileage*)
These wear out and should be regarded as a potential service item and not just investigated as a 'last resort'. *They are far more likely to give problems if the car has been run with petrol in the tank or on veg oil or poor quality biodiesel.
Symptoms range from poor starting, worse when hot, uneven idle, poor performance, cutting out on full throttle, occasional white smoke & loud engine rattle. Any tuning product whether plug-in box or remap will make matters worse as it highlights the fuel pressure problem cause by worn and / or leaking injectors.
Usually a seal within an injector fails, allowing fuel to escape into the return pipe. This short circuits the rail pressure and prevents it reaching the 220bar required to activate the injectors at cranking speed. If the engine starts using Easy Start or a tow, then this can confirm injector leak back due to the higher engine speed generating enough pressure to overcome the leak. If the leak is excessive, insufficient fuel is left to supply the engine under full throttle and performance suffers and the ecu may stop the engine if the fuel pressure does reach the expected level. (usually at or over 3k rpm)
To identify the faulty injector (which can be serviced) unplug the electrical connectors and cam sensor, disconnect the return pipe (on the top), and plug the end of the return pipe. Crank the engine and look for fuel issuing from the return outlet - there should not be any from a good injector. The fault code 'rail pressure too low' is often logged. This is the first of two known faults covered by Bosch on their common rail training course.
NB The internal valving may also fail and the nozzle orifices can become clogged or worn so leak back is NOT the only fault. If the valving is faulty white or grey smoke smelling strongly of unburnt fuel will occur on large throttle openings and the engine can stop. Poor spray pattern gives uneven running and misfires, often the mpg will drop.
Servicing of an injector costs from around £75 -90, new ones are about £200 fitted. There is NO need to have all 4 replaced, though its recommended to have all of them tested and matched. They can be hard to remove, though the Haynes manual doesn't mention this!. Do not buy them off Ebay.
To remove the injectors, try soaking them for a couple of days in penetrating oil (not WD40) and then, having disconnected the connector and pipes, undo the retaining nuts a few turns and crank the engine over. Hopefully, the compression will dislodge them. You can also now buy an injector puller (slide hammer type) for about £40 which will usually shift stubborn ones.
FOR SERVICING OF FUEL SYSTEM COMPONENTS Please contact Alan Darby at Lynxdiesels.com in Wokingham
He comes highly recommended by the 75 & ZT owners who have used his services and his prices are very reasonable. Please note, you will need to have all 4 injectors checked as they need to be balanced as a set even if not all require attention.
6) FUEL RAIL PRESSURE SENSOR DIRTY. (quite rare - try the maf sensor first.)
Location - under the intake duct below the yellow arrow on photo 4 above
Unscrew the sensor and clean it being careful not to let dirt enter the orifice.
Also clean the contacts with switch cleaner. Failure is very rare and replacement about £80
Get you home measure: Unplug & reconnect the sensor connector a few times to improve the connection. Or leave it unplugged, though you will lose a lot of power.
Update 17-05-06 Recently two owners have reported the sensor was not very tightly screwed in. In one case it had been spraying fuel over the engine it was so loose.
7) FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR (quite rare)
One owner had power and eventually starting problems. These were eventually traced to a leaking seal in the pressure regulator (solenoid) which is bolted onto the end of the high pressure pump. The regulator can be unbolted and the seal replaced by a Bosch injection specialist. Starter will need to be remove to gain access. If the regulator is faulty the engine may cut out at 3000rpm or there may be starting and general erratic performance. Petrol in the fuel, poor quality biodiesel or the use of veg oil may well shorten the life of this component. A replacement is about £100.
Contact Alan at Lynxdiesels.com for spares
8) MICROFILTER
There is a microfilter in the inlet to the high pressure pump which has been known to become partially clogged causing erratic performance, loss of power and engine cutting out. Remove the HP regulator to access it.
B) CUTTING OUT UNDER HARD ACCELERATION, POSSIBLY WITH BLACK OR WHITE / GREY SMOKE
1) This is usually due to a fuel supply issue. The requested fuel pressure is not being achieved so the ecu stops the engine in case the high pressure pump is damaged due to fuel starvation. SEE SECTION A) parts 1,6,7,8 See also section G
2) A faulty injector can also cause this. If idling is also rough, try unplugging the connector from each injector in turn, noting the effect each on has on the idle smoothness. The one which has the least effect or the most effect on idling will be defective. (Least effect if it its supplying less fuel, most effect if its over fuelling that cylinder) They can be serviced for about £75 so no need to replace them despite what the 'experts' may say.
C) LOSS OF POWER WITH LOTS OF BLACK SMOKE.
1) Most commonly due to a split in one of the hoses to/from the intercooler or a leaking seal at the intercooler inlet/outlet. Rarely, a faulty turbo - so check absolutely everything else first. Also check for leaking egr valve and wastegate jammed open or linkage fallen off.
SOME BLACK SMOKE - NO POWER LOSS, POOR MPG.
1) Maf sensor faulty - they can give out too high a signal rather than the more common loss of signal. This leads to some smoke, sooty marks on the bumper above the tailpipe and below average mpg. Because there is no loss of low down torque, the overfuelling maf sensor is often overlooked. Many owners have had much improved mpg by fitting a Pierburgh maf with a Mafam MF75p or Synergy 2.
2) Faulty injector. See comments in previous section.
3) FREELANDER (*only) - VARIABLE GEOMETRY TURBO MECHANISM, ACTUATOR OR SOLENOID malfunction can cause various symptoms. Beware the dealer doesn't try to blame the turbo when its one of the above! (*Fixed geometry turbo on the 75/ZT and very reliable)
The ecu resides in the passenger side plenum - the space between the two bulkheads, just in front of the windscreen.
There are drain holes either side and two inside in the base, one under the brake servo and one under the ecu. If any of them becomes blocked, the plenum fills up with water, submerging the ecu. Early indications of failure are erratic tacho readings and cruise control problems due the Can Bus components being damaged.
NB The heater plug control module also reside in this chamber and is equally at risk.
Regularly check the drain holes (e.g. for dead leaves) and also poke a stiff wire (straightened coat hanger) down to make sure the end isn't obstructed.
As you can see below, a leaf is partially obstructing my right hand side one and about to block the left hand one as well. Just as well I checked them!
The ecu is under the grille in the photo below, though there is another cover over it.
TIP:
Buy a water level detector, eg one made to detect your bath overflowing and fit it in the plenum chamber. It will alert you before any damage is done.
E) WEBASTO DIESEL POWERED HEATER
It should come on when the air temp is below 5C and the engine is cold. If not :-
i) Check fuse 8 in the engine bay fuse box. Replace with a 20amp one if blown.
ii) Remove and refit the fuse to reset the unit. (It disables itself after 3 failed startup attempts)
iii) Listen for a ticking noise from just below the drivers side rear footwell. It is the solenoid operated fuel pump. No noise means either it has seized due to lack of use or has failed. Try tapping it gently with a hammer or American screwdriver to free it. failure of the electronic module seems quite common.
iv) Sometimes the FBH can affect other systems as it is connected to the cars K bus. Try unplugging the multiplug.
F) OIL PUMPS OUT OF THE DIPSTICK AND EXHAUST SMOKE IS BLUE.
The PCV valve has jammed. This is quite common and must be rectified asap as the increased crankcase pressure will damage the oil seals. See above for pcv details.
I am grateful for the information provided by the owners who managed to find these faults after eliminating all the usual suspects.
A) Engine slow to start, runs okay sometimes, may cut out and then won't start. FIX: Remove and clean the injector plugs. Also check the wiring for signs of damage and loose connections.
B) Engine cuts out at 4000rpm. The fault code indicated pressure regulator faulty causing erratic fuel pressure but it was the fuel rail pressure sensor. I recommend checking the wiring to it as well - it has been known to break internally.
7) ON BOARD DIAGNOSTICS - EOBD.
My '02 75 is similar to the 45 -in that sensor data only can be read through the diagnostic socket using any generic OBD ISO scantool.
I used my Scantool ISO laptop interface and Elm compatible software. I've tried OBD Logger & Scanmaster. I noticed that the throttle position never passed 94% so the pedal stop needs adjusting and the rev counter was spot on from 1000-4000 and then under read slightly above that. (In contrast to both my 45's which over read by 8-9%.)
However, like the 25/45, fault codes CANNOT be read, nor would the check engine light (mil) be resettable.
I confirmed this by disconnecting the map sensor and using my Sykes Pickavant ACR4 to view the resulting fault code. Whereas the Scantool software reported no fault codes just as it does with the 45. The reason will be same as given on my OBD page here.
THE GENERIC CODE READERS WILL WORK FULLY ON ALL THE PETROL MODELS AND DIESELS FROM 2004.
RESETTING THE SERVICE INDICATOR.
Having done your own servicing, you may need to reset the service indicator back to 15000.
Follow this link to the MGRover forum for details.
Basically you link pins 4 and 8 of the diagnostic connector with a paper clip or piece of wire, turn on the ignition and wait several seconds. I have not tried this and cannot vouch for it, but no problems have been reported doing it.